Good Wine Doesn’t Have to be Organic but it Helps

Regardless of where in the world we are based now, the idea of organic and sustainable production is no longer trendy but very much a driving force informing restaurant menus, clothing purchases and corporate boardrooms. It’s not surprising then that many of us seek the facets of a wellness ritual during off hours, particularly when it comes to what we eat and drink with even celebrities now producing ‘clean’ wine brands, the latest being Cameron Diaz with her Avaline line of wines. 

With many restaurant menus and wine lists dedicated now to organic, natural and sustainable wines, it’s no wonder that many wine enthusiasts come to us scratching their heads and asking about what constitutes an organic wine and whether they can still drink a wine that’s not certified organic and still be healthy. 

The proof is in the pudding. Or in this case, the wine. You may already be drinking wine made with organic practices but not stated on the label. While I won’t even pretend to be in the same category of wine experts such as famed British wine writer and critic Jancis Robinson and Robert Parker who have attested to the strength of biodynamic wines, there are now studies that back up their statements that organic and biodynamic wines are rated higher than their conventionally made counterparts. While this may be attributed to less chemicals being used in the viticulture of the grapes and less additives used in the winemaking process, it’s now more universally accepted that less is often more when it comes to winemaking. 

Unfortunately getting the stamp of being a certified organic producer can be time consuming and cost prohibitive. While some producers go through the trouble of getting the stamp of certification when it comes to organic production, many choose to employ different organic, biodynamic and sustainable farming practices that align with their ethos of winemaking. In an interview I conducted with wine director Mark Pardoe, MW at Berry Bros & Rudd recently, he shared that “Upwards of 80% of our portfolio is organic this year, hardly any are certified because they [wine producers] don’t do it for certification. The process of growing grapes organically is the way to get the best fruit to make the best wine.” 

What is surprising is that while the consumer perception of natural wines is high, most don’t realize that unlike organic wines, there is no official industry certification for natural wine nor is there a recognized global certification for sustainable wines. 

So what’s the difference between all of these wines? Here’s our attempt at a primer.

Caption: Ornellaia Vineyards in Bolgheri, Tuscany

Organic Wines - Broadly speaking, the reference is to wine made from organic grapes with no added sulfites and via organic viticulture practices without fertilizers, pesticides or anything that has been genetically modified. Organic winemaking standards vary around the world with fining agents usually allowed to stabilize and clarify the wine before bottling. Note that this is not to be confused with vegetarian or vegan wines as fining agents are usually made with animal-derived products. 

Biodynamic - Usually in reference to grape viticulture and how the grapes are farmed, biodynamic producers take organic practices a step further with stricter guidelines regarding enrichment, nutrient additions and the use of energy-intensive practices, including pasteurization with agricultural work performed according to the biodynamic calendar which is focused on lunar movements with the 12 constellations. While there isn’t much with regards to scientific data to demonstrate proof of the effectiveness of biodynamic practices, experts agree that the vines look healthier and resulting fruit tastes more intense. As Felton Road likes to put it, “every opportunity is carefully monitored to ensure that we are being as sustainable as possible, so that we can maintain our land, support it, and help it to persevere.” 

Caption: Cullen Wines, Margaret River, Australia 

Sustainable Wines - The term is used quite liberally with the definition dependent on the wine program in each region and country. Broadly speaking, it means that the winery aims to have a process in its production of wine that supports social responsibility, protects the environment and maintains economic feasibility, economic sustainability while producing high quality grapes. Like organic certifications ,there are no international rules for organic production methods and sustainable wine certifications can vary depending on the region and country with the USDA guidelines differing from the EU’s.

Caption: Chandon de Briailles vineyards  

Natural wines - The simplest way to put this is how wine was made thousands of years ago - fermenting grape juice with no added sulfites. Also referred to as “low-interventionist wines”, growing and picking the grapes is all done manually, relying on native yeast to set off natural fermentation. Given that there is nothing today that regulates what makes a natural wine “natural” the amount of sulfites added before bottling can vary among producers, with small amounts totaling around 10 to 35 parts per million generally considered as acceptable as a “natural wine.” Compare this to non-natural or “conventional” winemaking which usually has around 50 parts per million for a standard red glass of wine. For the sake of comparison, the USDA allows a maximum of 350 parts per million so it’s no wonder that when you taste a natural wine for the first time, it will taste very different from conventional wines.  Regardless of the numbers, producers who stand by this method intend to “make wine made for drinking", as leading Australian natural winemaker Mac Forbes would say. 

With consumers now being much more conscious of what they imbibe, it’s not surprising that the options are endless. Start by being more informed about the winemakers behind the labels that you already love and other producers from the same region. Get to know the provenance of the wine, the region, viticulture practices, production methods and the sustainable wine programs affiliated with that region. Take the opportunity to ask the sommelier next time you’re at your favorite restaurant or wine experts at your local shop. More likely than not, the wines you have come to love are already likely practicing some form of organic, biodynamic or sustainable winemaking.

Additional producers we recommend: 

Organic: Domaine Fouassier, Chandon de Briailles, Mac Forbes, Felton Road, Kooyong, Seresin, Otronia, Ornellaia, Planeta, Vietti, Ferrari, Schloss Gobelsburg, Stellenrust, Cullen and Carrick Winery, among many others. 

Biodynamic:Cullen Wines, Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Ornellaia, Seña, Domaine Michel Lafarge, Domaine Leflaive, Josemeyer and Quartz Reef.

Sustainable: Cullen Winery, Zuccardi Wines, Stargazer Rada, St.Supery, Silver Oak, Klaus Peter Keller of Weingut, Catena Zapata. 

Natural: Chandon de Briailles, Laurence et Remi Dufaitre, Domaine Jean Foillard, William Downie who makes Pinot Noir under his eponymous label. 

If you’re interested in tasing a diverse collection of certified organic wines, check out our featured October TOASST “Green and Clean box, available now as a featured box in our Wine Shop or if you sign up for our Wine Club. We’ll also be speaking with organic winemaker Rosie Menzies of New Zealand-based Carrick Winery for a virtual wine tasting in November, sign up now at info@toasst.co to learn more about organic winemaking and taste some delicious wines!